Gorham Silver Marks: Dating and Identification Guide with Photos

Authentic Gorham silver is identified by the standard Lion, Anchor, and G trademark found on the underside of sterling pieces. Items manufactured between 1868 and 1884 bear a capital letter date code (A-Q), while pieces from 1885 to 1933 feature specific year symbols, such as a wolf or an anchor. Always verify the “Sterling” stamp to confirm 92.5% purity.

Imagine you are at a dusty estate sale in Providence, Rhode Island.

You are digging through a box of mixed cutlery when the glint of a heavy, tarnished fork catches your eye. It feels substantial in your hand—heavier than the stainless steel next to it. You flip it over and see three tiny symbols: a lion, an anchor, and a capital G.

Congratulations. You might have just found a piece of American history from the Gorham Manufacturing Company, one of the most influential silversmiths of the 19th and 20th centuries.

But finding the mark is just the beginning. To determine the fair market value and age, you need to decode exactly what those symbols mean.

What Are the Standard Gorham Silver Trademarks?

For most collectors, the “holy trinity” of Gorham identification is the Lion, Anchor, and G.

This trademark was adopted in the late 19th century to signify sterling silver quality (925/1000 parts silver).

• Lion: Represents the English lion passant, symbolizing sterling quality.
• Anchor: Represents Rhode Island (where Gorham was founded in 1831).
• G: Stands for Gorham.

If you see these three marks together, you are almost certainly looking at a solid silver piece, not silver plate. However, earlier pieces from the “Coin Silver” era (before 1868) may only be marked “Coin” or have simple pseudohallmarks.

How Can I Date My Gorham Piece Using Codes?

One of the best things about collecting Gorham is their precise dating system. Unlike many other American manufacturers who left us guessing, Gorham used specific codes for decades.

1868 to 1884: The Letter System
During this period, Gorham used capital letters A through Q to denote the year. For example:

• A = 1868

• B = 1869

• Q = 1884

1885 to 1933: The Symbol System
This is where it gets fun—and tricky. After running out of letters, Gorham switched to small pictorial symbols.

• 1885: A Wolf’s Head

• 1886: A Ship

• 1900: A Sickle

Identifying these marks manually can take hours of cross-referencing charts. Using the Antique Identifier app, you can simply take a photo and get an instant result.

Is My Item Sterling Silver or Silver Plate?

This is the most critical question for determining replacement value.

Sterling Silver
Look for the word “Sterling” stamped near the hallmarks. This guarantees the metal is 92.5% pure silver. This standard was legally adopted by Gorham in 1868.

Silver Plate (Electroplate)
If you see marks like “EP”, “Electroplate”, or “Gorham Electro Plate”, the item is made of a base metal (usually copper or nickel) coated in a thin layer of silver.

Be careful with “GM Co” marks found on silver soldered pieces; these are often high-quality plate used in hotels, but they lack the intrinsic bullion value of sterling.

To learn more about testing methods, check out our guide on Sterling Silver vs. Silver Plate: The “Ice Cube” Test and More.

What Are Martelé and Athenic Lines?

If you are lucky enough to find a piece marked Martelé (French for “hammered”), you have struck gold—or rather, high-grade silver.

Produced around the turn of the 20th century (approx. 1897-1912), the Martelé line represents the pinnacle of the Art Nouveau style.

• Purity: These pieces often have a higher silver content (.950 or .9584) than standard sterling to make the metal softer for hand-hammering.
• Attribution: Each piece was handmade and unique.
• Value: Auction estimates for Martelé often run into the thousands or tens of thousands.

Athenic is another rare line, combining sterling silver with other materials like copper or wood, reflecting the Arts and Crafts movement.

How Does Condition Affect the Value?

In my 20 years of appraising, I have seen beautiful pieces ruined by improper cleaning.

Provenance (the history of ownership) adds value, but condition dictates the price.

• Polishing: Never over-polish. The “patina” (the soft glow from tiny scratches over time) is desirable.

• Monograms: Contrary to popular belief, monograms do not always kill value. On early or rare pieces, they are part of the history.

• Damage: Dents, heavy scratches, or salt pitting (black spots that eat into the metal) will lower the auction estimate.

If you suspect you have a high-value item, consult a professional for a condition report before attempting any restoration or conservation yourself. Improper removal of tarnish can strip the detail right off the assay marks.

Related Antique Identification Guides

Expand your expertise with these related guides: Antique Teapot Identification: Finding English Silver and Ceramic Marks, Sterling Silver vs. Silver Plate: The “Ice Cube” Test and More, Decoding British Silver Hallmarks: How to Read the Lion and Anchor

Conclusion

Identifying Gorham silver is a journey through American manufacturing history. By learning to spot the Lion-Anchor-G, decoding the date symbols, and assessing the condition, you can confidently separate treasure from trinkets at your next estate sale.