Identifying Pewter vs. Silver: 3 Simple Ways to Tell the Difference

Authentic sterling silver almost always bears a .925 or Sterling hallmark, feels harder to the touch, and produces a high-pitched ring when tapped. Pewter, a softer alloy, marks easily, often displays a duller grey oxidation, and makes a flat ‘thud’ sound. Always check for specific touchmarks on the base to confirm the maker.

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Imagine you are at a crowded estate sale in rural Pennsylvania. You spot a tarnished grey tankard on a dusty shelf. It looks old, and it has the weight of history, but is it valuable sterling silver or just common pewter?

The price tag says $10, but the difference in fair market value could be hundreds—sometimes thousands—of dollars.

As an appraiser who has handled thousands of these items, I see collectors make expensive mistakes here constantly. Distinguishing these two metals is the first step in building a serious collection or finding a hidden gem for resale.

How can I tell if my item is Silver or Pewter by the markings?

The most reliable method for authentication is examining the marks. Silver is a precious metal and is strictly regulated; pewter is a base metal alloy (mostly tin) and follows different rules.

Sterling Silver produced in the US or UK will almost invariably have a hallmark. Look for the word “Sterling” or the number “925”. If the piece is English, look for the Lion Passant (a walking lion). These assay marks guarantee the metal content is 92.5% pure silver.

Pewter, on the other hand, utilizes “touchmarks.” These are often pictorial stamps—like an angel with wings, a rose and crown, or simply the maker’s name inside a serrated circle.

If you see a stamp that says “EPNS” (Electro Plated Nickel Silver) or “Quadruple Plate,” you are looking at silver plate, not solid silver. This has a much lower auction estimate than sterling.

Identifying these marks manually can take hours. Using the Antique Identifier app, you can simply take a photo and get an instant result.

What is the “Touch and Tone” test?

If the marks are worn away—a common issue in a condition report for 18th-century pieces—you must rely on physical properties.

The Ring Test:
Tap the edge of the item gently with your fingernail.

• Silver: Will produce a clear, bell-like ring that resonates for 1-2 seconds.

• Pewter: Will produce a dull, dead “thud.” There is no resonance because the metal is softer and denser.

The Hardness Test:
Pewter is significantly softer than silver. If you examine a pewter tankard, you will often see many small dings, scratches, and dents. It feels somewhat “greasy” or soft to the thumb.

Sterling silver is harder. While it scratches, it doesn’t dent as easily as pewter. Be careful not to press too hard on soft pewter handles, or you might require professional restoration or conservation work later.

How does the patina differ between the two metals?

When I perform an appraisal, I look immediately at the color of the tarnish. This is often the quickest giveaway before I even pick up the piece.

Silver tarnish (oxidation) ranges from yellow to deep purple and eventually black. However, underneath that tarnish, the metal is a brilliant, cool white. If you rub a small spot with a cloth, sterling silver shines up incredibly bright.

Pewter oxidizes to a dull, matte grey. It resembles lead (and antique pewter often contained lead, so be careful). It rarely gets “black” the way silver does; it just gets darker grey and distinctively flat.

If you are examining handles or knobs, you might also find that the hardware tells a story about the item’s age. This technique is similar to what we cover in our guide on The Secret Language of Furniture Hardware: Dating Knobs and Pulls, where base metals often reveal the true age of a piece.

Is there a way to test for “Coin Silver”?

Yes, and this is specific to the US market. Before 1868, the US didn’t strictly use the Sterling standard. We used Coin Silver (90% silver), made from melted-down currency.

Coin silver items are often marked “Pure Coin,” “Coin,” or simply with the retailer’s name and a city (e.g., “R&W Wilson Philada”).

Do not mistake these for pewter just because they lack the “.925” mark. Coin silver has high provenance value and is highly sought after by collectors of early American Americana.

However, be wary of forgery detection. Unscrupulous sellers may stamp fresh marks on old pewter. If the mark looks too crisp on a piece that looks battered, proceed with caution.

Related Antique Identification Guides

Expand your expertise with these related guides: How to Identify 19th Century Japanese Vases (Satsuma vs. Imari), Identifying Antique Settees and Sofas: A Period-by-Period Breakdown, The Secret Language of Furniture Hardware: Dating Knobs and Pulls